12 / Dusty Chaos: Why You'll Love Athens
Location: Athens, Greece
Adjusting to Athens’ 33˚C convection heat, after six weeks of Norway’s ‘it’s bloody cold’ climate, took us a good few days.
This is a familiar experience for winter-escaping, southern hemispherian Australians. We’ll suffer a 20+ hour sardine can flight across the globe, chasing the European ‘bake’ – to then face a world of jet-lagged discombobulation. The reward? Endless sunshine, sea plunges and Greek salad.
We were in Athens last June. On brain-fried, post-travel day one of our travels we visited all the must-see sights. It’s bonkers. Why do we suffer near heat exhaustion, walking uncapped kilometres, queuing for entry, and clambering through ancient ruins in the midday heat?
This year’s visit was different. Less frenetic. The crumbly, dusty, lacking-planning reality of this ancient and dishevelled city had us wanting a more local, take-it-back-a-notch dive.
So this week I’ll avoid tales of Acropolis climbs, historic museum selfies, or a full review of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus summer festival (it’s closed for renovation). Instead, join me for some fine pastry finds, meaty market moments, magical sunsets and street art discoveries.
Late Night Galaktoboureko
I’m leading Athens’ must-dos with a dessert. Not just any final course mind you. This, my sweet-addicted friends, is Plyta’s Galaktoboureko.
Finally, after years of being surrounded by second generation Aussie Greeks, I now can not only say this mouth jumble, but also TYPE it. Gal-ak-to-bour-ek-o (that’s how it’s pronounced) is Greece’s croissant/profiterole/baklava/custard mashup.
It’s a national obsession.
I had my haircut at Ginger’s Barbershop in downtown Psyri this week. I shared with Gingerwitch (the owner – she’s amazing) the story of our Galaktoboureko experience on our first night ou… “Plyta”… she interrupted. She knew exactly where and what I was talking about. She had already been with her sister, a pro baker, with clear instructions that they were beelining for dessert – Galaktoboureko.
The review? “Excellent.”
Crunch.
Sawing through buttery, golden filo, drenched in sugar syrup. The egg-y custard holding its form rather than oozing wastefully. Manners quickly left the table. I downed an inappropriately large mouthful, topped with the thick, glossy kamiki ice cream – a flavourful mix of vanilla and mastic.
“Oh my God.” (I’m sure I said it at least five ‘Stanley Tucci’ times).
How is this possible? I have to share it?
Book your flights. The eighth wonder of the pastry world awaits.
Meat, Olives, and Sweet Walnuts
Varvakios Central Municipal Market is a moment’s stroll from Monisteraki Square, and a world away from the touting tourist Plaka. Narrow laneways and sandwiched retailers busily trading with locals and restaurateurs. There’s meat and fish, fruit and vegetables, olives (so many varieties!), honey, saltier hard and soft cheeses, cured meats, spices, oils… plus international produce from the likes of Southeast Asia and India that’s less easy to find in traditional Greek grocers.
The vast ‘slaughter hall’ for want of a name, has a stench – one that the daily bleach and scrub can’t mask. There’s booth after booth of butchers showcasing their wares on hooks and stainless steel benches – whole carcasses, pigs heads, trotters, and all the entrails sitting at room temperature – in the middle of summer.
I’m sure turnover is high, but it’s unsettling.
Butchers back home present like the set of CSI. I wonder if more tourists witnessed this cultural nuance, would they be diving into the meatier side of Greek cuisine with such veracious enthusiasm?
We left the meaty hall empty-handed, but spent up on olives, cheese, nuts, and spices. Retailers are happy for you to taste before the buy, as we did with the sweet, fresh walnuts, those delicious golden succulent raisins, the sharpest feta and those wrinkly prune-like olives… they really do melt in the mouth.
Sunset Vistas
In a city that embraces chaos, finding a place for pause is a welcome gift.
As the Athens’ heat eased, brain function slowly returned. We headed for the car-free, people-watching stroll along Dionysiou Areopagitou Promenade which circumnavigates the Acropolis site.
A well-worn marble pathway continued upwards to the evening’s A-reserve sunset spot.
Philopappos Hill rises comfortably above the city beat, with a terrain covered in olive trees, crumbly rocks and clay soil – remnants of Philopappos Monument at its crown. Here you will find magical 360˚panoramas of the Parthenon bathed in golden hues to the northeast, and drone-worthy ocean vistas across to Piraeus port and beyond.
So wonderful to experience locals and tourists enjoying a rare, mostly phone-free moment, as the gentle twilight tones, and twinkle of night arrived.
Street Artistry
Athens is a living canvas. Strolling Psiri’s small alleyways and deserted Gazi’s industrial streets feels strangely familiar. In our hometown of Collingwood, Melbourne you’ll find a similar urban ‘grit’ gallery, featuring well-known artists like Keith Haring, Matt Adnate and Sofles.
Perhaps the Athenians are more entitled to indulge this art form. The word graffiti derives from the ancient Greek verb ‘graphein’ (γράφειν), which translates as ‘to write’.
There’s prominent works by well-known artists INO and WD, but it’s worth hunting down the tucked away backstreets for more under-the-radar self-expression. Here’s a few we found…
Shared Moments
Best eats:
Plyta – founded by three well-known Athenian chefs and a (talented) baker. The brief? Present a seasonal menu that celebrates authentic, home-style Greek cooking, created with bio ingredients and priced ‘for the people’. This is the go-to destination for (one more time) Galaktoboureko. We’re fairly certain this dinner may turn out to be the finest Greek meal of the trip… to be confirmed! It’s a 45min stroll from town central. Call ahead to book a table across the road, under the shady trees.
Ristorante Atlantikos – This was our second visit to this seafood dining institution. They’ve expanded their set-up since last year but there’s still a decent queue, and for good reason. Service is excellent (and friendly), and most importantly, the grilled squid and braised chickpeas with smoked fish are worth the wait.
Pandora (Πανδώρα) – it’s crazy how this oldskool pie shop can exist so close to the touting Plaka and retain its local vibe. The Spanakopita (cheese and spinach pie) is baked fresh. It’s excellent. So is the Tiropita (cheese pie). They also serve kilo-sized slabs of Pastitsio (Greek Lasagna, with a tonne more Béchamel).
Best ‘worth the effort’ moment:
Applying for a Greek Digital Nomad Visa. With the tightened Schengen Agreement rules only allowing a ninety day stay in a rolling one-eighty for non-EU passport holders, this was our only option for an extended summer in Europe. After a few dozen unanswered emails, non-returned phone calls, and a three night stay in Canberra, we finally got the passport stamped!
Flat point:
Arriving at 3am, and being dropped off by Uber outside a late night club. A few moments of concern – a double-check of Google – thankfully our apartment was in a super quiet street around the corner.
Cultural observation:
Greek women are masters at holding space. Their restful demeanour is often a furrowed brow. At first this may appear somewhat affronting, but be patient, lean in for the conversation. They value respect, good family values and connection. A smile awaits your discovery.
And… onwards! 💚