13/ Messenia: A Peloponnese Odyssey
Location: Pylos (and surrounds), Greece
It’s early morning.
I’m gazing out across the Aegean Sea, beyond the magnificence of Methoni Castle – we’ve got the whole blockbusting film set to ourselves.
Plunge!
I’m picturing Christopher Nolan and his village-filling entourage on location for The Odyssey – commanding ‘Action!’, capturing Agamemnon’s epic return.
Greece in peak-season August can be a proper traffic jam. Islands stay barely afloat as tonnes of Feta, litres of Ouzo, and sunset beats fill the endless umbrella’d beach bars.
Instead, we took a leaf out of the local holiday book and stuck to the mainland. After a few Athenian coffees and Koulouria biscuits, we zipped southwest across the Peloponnese, through a few dozen toll gates (there are many!), arriving in the quieter, Messenian corner.
Our home for two weeks is Navarino Bay – the small, laid-back coastal town of Pylos – exploring the surrounding bays, beaches, villages, castles, and olive-clad countryside.
We’ve booked a simple one bedder apartment which sits above a family home. It’s clean, feels well-kept, and welcoming. There’s a wraparound balcony overlooking the mountain-scape behind town. No sweeping ocean panoramic, but it’s private, and peaceful.
There’s Niokastro (New Castle) next door, one of Greece’s finest, and more impressive preserved forts dating back to the 16th-century. Pylos town has two bakeries (clearly important), a Saturday farmers’ market, a trashy souvenir store, a ton of fig and ancient plane trees, and a generous handful of small tavernas and coffee shops.
So please, take a moment and join us for one of Greece’s finer swim spots, some tasty neighbourhood eats, morning rituals and downtown strolls.
Pylos Mornings
7.00am. A cool start to the day.
I adjourn to the balcony for the morning – decent coffee in hand.
A shirtless guy with ample belly, keys jangling, dog leash tied securely to his pants parades by. The lady next door opens her shutters, greeting me with “Yassas” and a friendly smile. The investigative retirees gathered across the way, clocking my every move. A lone cicada starts the engine. Swallows fill the skies. A black cat gazes my way.
9.00am. We wander through town to Pylos Pier – the magnificent Navarino Bay glistening like polished turquoise glass.
We join the bobbing gaggles of hats and sunglasses. Some solo, others deep in conversation, intent on voicing their concerns, occasionally pausing to catch a breath. Yia Yia’s in her fold-out chair. She’s on a call, it’s strictly business, her other hand poised with nicotine stick. Papou’s greys twinkle through his less-recently dyed mop of hair. There’s the family holidaying with four kids. Dad playing footy with the boys, the youngest more interested in repeatedly launching himself off the pier. Mum tanning with the girls.
The summer bake soon kicks in. Thankfully we’re under the shade of centuries old trees that fill the French Colonial-designed, Three Admiral’s Town Square. There’s a power outage, so fuel-guzzling generators grind away to deliver umpteen freddos. Young, dexterous staff dart across the streets to meet the caffeinated demands of (mostly retired) locals.
With a few thousand cicadas now in full chorus… I need earplugs.
Just a few streets stroll away and we’re soon home. Tranquility.
Our Awesome Hosts
“Fresh figs for you!”
Lampro and Giorgos from Studio Dionphaie have been our ‘bestie’ hosts these past two weeks. On Tuesday afternoon, Lampro knocked on our door bearing gifts – a plateful of the freshest, just-off-the-tree purple figs – just in time for post-lunch treats.
Yesterday it was a plate of Galaktoboureko. Greece’s pastry / syrup / custard mashup collected from her favourite bakery in Kalamata, an hour’s drive from Pylos (If you read my previous Athens post you would know this dessert scores Lampro a place in my inner circle).
The Methoni Plunge
Okay, the hero image this week was click-bait. The reality was we almost broke our necks traversing the jagged breakwater, beyond the fortress of Methoni Castle in our not-made-for-hiking Birkenstocks.
The stumble was worth it… hello Asprades.
Did we mistakenly book the Caribbean?
The castles’ ancient stone battlements and crumbling (partially restored) walls have stood their ground for centuries, towering majestically above the surrounding Ionian Sea. The surrounding waters are truly exquisite… it’s IMAX worthy.
The small town of Methoni surrounding the castle shores is a fifteen minute drive from Pylos. It’s postcard-perfect, with its main cobbled street lined with small, vivid white terrace houses, occasional tavernas, an always busy bakery and a castle car park at the end of the street. Walk passed the beach lounge-lovers, along the sandy walkway, past the small fishing boats, and hello there… swim perfection.
Punari Taverna
8.00pm. The sky’s bathed in a warm hug.
Fortunately our tin can car was able to squeeze it’s way through the labyrinth of Mesochori – a small, huddled village just ten minutes up the hill from Pylos – a world away from the coastal crowds.
Giorgos’ cousin’s son (I may have that wrong… but read important family connection) runs this establishment. A quick phone call and the A-Reserve booking is made.
Dining in downtown Athens, you wouldn’t think Greek food to be particularly regional, but signature dishes are celebrated across islands, regions, and even towns. We ordered the plakopites – a Greek-style crêpe stack with thin, crispy edges. Grated dry mizithra cheese is sprinkled between each layer. Salty, olive oil-y, cheesy, crunchy-edged goodness. Incredibly moreish. I found a recipe, but no guarantees. Add this to your must-eat-on-set list.
The wood-fired oven delivered roasted, crackling-covered pork with fall-apart lemon potato wedges. Sides of Vlita greens, and glossy, beetroot salad. Cue more glugs of oil and salt.
Dangerously good. Imminently devoured.
Leaving a Greek restaurant around 10.30pm feels like you need to sneak out the side door. Kids are still very present, diners arriving to join friends, kitchen still in full swing.
We exit, yawning politely. Stomachs stuffed.
Address: Punari, Mesochorion, Pilos
They’re only open for dinner.
Call ahead to book: 698 232 2762
Shared Moments
Best eats:
Door-delivered, garden figs & veggies – abundant figs, without having to be (boring) polite and have just one? Zucchinis straight from the vine – no bitterness, just sweet, green flavour? Thank you lovely Lampro.
Gigantes Plaki – these dried white beans expand to feed the masses. Soak them overnight then boil for an hour, like you would chickpeas. Cook with onion, garlic, olive oil (of course), tomatoes, oregano, paprika, and chilli. Serve them warm or at room temperature with crumbly feta cheese, fresh dill, and some decent chunks of bread to mop the sauce.
Best ‘worth the effort’ moment:
Staying a second week. It’s a blessing to have more time to connect with daily rituals, regular faces, and shared conversations. The downside? Having to say goodbye.
Flat point:
Rubbish internet when you have a client call!
Cultural observation:
The Greeks aren’t overly raucous at dinner. There’s quiet, considered conversational hum, with the occasional child being brought back into line. All surprisingly civilised. A Greek wedding though? I’m sure the plate-smashing, Ouzo-loving celebrations are a different story.
And… onwards! 💚