11/ Spetses: The Perfect Summer Slowdown
Location: Spetses Island, Greece
When you’re used to being that word – busy – acclimatising to a simpler life in the Greek Islands can take a little practice.
We recently dived into six weeks of Nordic vanlife. There was constant planning of where to go/see/hike/climb/drive/explore, so shifting to swim/read/eat/repeat? It’s taken some getting used to.
Rolling your eyes? 😂 …I’ll get on with the article at hand!
Spending these past two weeks on small, picturesque Spetses in the Saronic Islands, has been a proper slow down treat. There’s only one main town on the island, the rest is a serpentine coastal loop with charming beach stops along the way.
It feels like there are only a few non-Greeks around. Being so close to Athens, Spetses is a popular Athenian getaway, and the port-side of town is a bit rah rah. There’s many a boat shoe, linen trouser, Hermès hand bag and toy dog to be found. Impressive old shipping tycoon mansions with manicured gardens, immaculately restored wooden fishing boats bobbing about the foreshore, and local eateries with tables spilling out onto jetties.
Very postcard perfect.
We’re staying on the quieter side of town, enjoying connection with more village daily rituals. Yia Yia and Papou across the way, on their balcony every morning and night, checking the world’s still here, then returning inside after a deck sweep and adjusting the shutters. Small, skilful swallows swooshing over our patio as the sunrises. Bells of the local Orthodox Church ringing out at 8am. That committed-to-the-task barking dog.
This week I’m sharing with you a few moments of Spetses we’ve loved.
Getting Local
It’s our forth day. Up to this point we’ve been brewing one-hour coffees, b-lining it for the closest plunge, eating local bakery spanakopita (mmmm… buttery, crunchy filo pastry), and reading the afternoon away.
Today we finally ventured out, hiring a ‘don’t have a motorbike licence but it’s cool because we’re on holiday’ scooter. FYI – Spetses is promoted as car free, which it is, but at this time of year it’s motorbike, and every kind of bike central.
The island can be comfortably lapped in an hour. We ascended out of the main town, the windy road opening up to vistas of the shimmering Aegean Sea and mainland beyond. Perfect little pebble beaches zipped by. Pencil pines, eucalypti, neat rows of umbrellas and oiled up tanners, and occasional cruisers and catamarans moored in the picturesque bays below.
The town is a great starting point, but I recommend heading out soon after for a first island lap explore. Motorbikes aren’t mandatory. You can hire traditional or e-bikes, catch the local bus, or hire a water taxi to zip you to your favourite cove.
The Farmers’ Market
A short, early morning stroll brought us to the two stall, Wednesday fresh produce market. The locals were already buzzing, well before the tourist crowds surfacing for their oat lattes.
This really is the best slice of your summer day – before the heat kicks in.
As I began the browse, a puff of cigarette smoke crossed my path. I looked for the culprit, was it a Parisian tourist? No, it was Papou – the old guy who lives across the way from our place. Shirt open, cigarette half hanging out of his mouth, massive bag of cherries in hand, ash falling everywhere. The stall owner clocked his ‘waiting’ presence, rolled her eyes and grabbed the bag to weigh. Cash was exchanged, then he waddled home in another puff of smoke. I’m sure this exchange happens weekly… same time, same place.
We left with the fattest, juiciest tomatoes. Crunchy cucumbers – I was advised to use Telegraph for Greek salad, not the softer ones I’d selected… insider knowledge. Those light green bulbous zucchinis that are great boiled, then served at room temperature with oil, lemon, salt, and pepper. Red onions, red capsicums, red cherries… everything red. A delicious, slightly salty green called amphytra that a friend recommended. Then seasonal fruit – cling-less nectarines (important… not a fan of the messy ones), fragrant apricots, perfectly sweet n’ sourish green grapes. Oh and the deli staples – local brined olives, hazelnuts, and golden raisins.
Paralia Ligoneriou (Little Pebble Beach)
There’s a widespread love of clubs and umbrella lounges in Greek beach culture. The idea of paying to be seaside with thumping beats and Ouzo, though, is foreign to us Aussies – we celebrate having the whole beach to ourselves, with the odd passing whale and curious kangaroo.
I found a little Aussie-approved gem called Paralia Ligoneriou – a small, lounge-less pebble beach – only seven minutes out of town on the bike. Winning.
A timber sleeper staircase weaving through the trees offered glimpses of the alluring turquoise waters below.
A gentle breeze. Polished pebbles. Lapping waves. Plunge.
Spetses is covered in introduced Aleppo Pine Trees. Some native purists avoid the island, claiming it to be covered in ‘fake flora’, but they make for a beautiful and green landscape against the clay soils and rock faces. Importantly, the central Aleppo on this beach provides the perfect, cooler shade – a rare gift in Greece.
After our third visit, a familiar-faced local offered up a “Kalimera” – good morning. A nod from the guy in his portable chair, reading, puffing away on his cigar. The Greeks aren’t overly gushy, so this felt welcoming.
Careful with the ‘friendly stuff’ people… we may just stay forever.
That First Fig
I was out the door at 6.30am yet again for ‘the best time of day’, according to my more-local Substacker comrade Rowena Harding 🍉 . A gentle breeze, soft morning rays, a true calm before the engine of the day.
Ginger, black, white, and tiger-striped felines were at play, fussing over food left by locals, loitering around rubbish bins – gaze on me without a blink, artfully avoiding interaction.
A maze of climbing concrete paths to the hills beyond Spetses town soon rewarded me with an expansive, glistening sea vista, intertwined currents, a majestic yacht beyond. Such beauty.
I continued along the ridge to a dead end path, the air filled with the familiar scent of fig. I’d found a grand old tree. July is early, but I searched in hope of finding ripe fruit.
There it was. My first plump, ready-to-devour fig, ripe for the picking. Clearly I couldn’t resist. I broke it in two, revealing the sticky, sweet flesh for that first bite... drool. Yum.
I loaded up my hat with a dozen more before returning for breakfast – muesli with Greek yoghurt, the freshest of freshly picked figs, toasted hazelnuts and a decent drizzle of Monemvasia honey.
Exploding Bougainvilleas
The magical bursts of pink over white washed walls are scattered throughout the town. Less talk… more pictures.
Freddo Cappuccino
“Cappuccino, Efcharistó (thanks)” my hubby requested.
“Hot or cold?” the waiter replied.
Order a coffee in Greece at any time of day, and you’ll learn the hot/cold coffee thing… is a thing. It across all ‘gens’ too – young and old slurping away at their ice-laden, tar-black espresso with white frothy-topped milk. I kind of get it. In the heat of the afternoon it’s a decent cool-off, but honestly, a well-textured latte in the a.m. trumps any cold fluffy stuff. And there’s way too much plastic cup and straw going on Greece!
I decided to brew an ‘ice cold’ yesterday afternoon when the heat was on. I’m now a p.m. convert. Sharing with you the recipe:
Ingredients
1 espresso shot
1 tsp raw sugar
1/2 cup of cold, full cream dairy or oat milk (life’s too short for skim)
A few chunks of ice
A decent milk frother (essential for texture)
A tall ‘glass’ glass
Method
Pour the espresso shot into the glass with the sugar and ‘texture’ with the frother until rich, creamy, and caramel-coloured. Add the ice. Froth the cold milk to a silky, paint-like consistency in a separate jug (with foam integrated). Pour milk over the coffee to give a wonderful marble-y swirl-y effect in the glass. Even better with a sesame-covered Koulouria biscuit to dip in. Cheers!
Why You’ll Love Spetses
Close proximity to Athens
No need to fly. The high speed ferry has you there in two hours from Athens, door to door. Several ferries a day during peak season. Link to book.An authentic Greek Experience
Spetses puts it’s Greek foot first. No touts waiving English all-day-breakfast menus. Stay for a while, chill, and enjoy a slice of local rather than needing to jump from island to island.Spetses town is charming
From simple souvlaki stalls and open-all-day cafes (Tiramisu was cute), to smarter retail stores and the landmark Poseidonion Grand Hotel – the town strolling delivers. Enjoy the evening when the main street is motor free, and horse-drawn carts shuttle tourists to and fro along the promenade.Pine trees, shade, and plenty of beaches
Shade is your friend in summer. Take the plunge at one of the smaller out of town pine tree beaches like Paralia Ligoneriou, or larger lounge offerings like Paradise Beach should that be your cuppa. If you’re feeling lazy, then swimming off the town pier in front of the small church is a wonderful easy option.Weekly Farmers’ Markets
Held every Wednesday and Saturday morning in town. Ask a local for directions, it’s the easiest way to find them.Decent Bakeries
Save a slab of Euros for lunch and head to your local for freshly baked Spanakopita (spinach pie) or Tiropita (cheese pie… naughtier, but do it once). Be early though, most of the good stuff disappears after 1pm and they often close early afternoon. Αρτοποιειο Το Ρολοι bakes fresh pies daily.Restaurants – look a few streets back from the pier ‘headliners’
Like in any town, the best eats are often found in the backstreets. The crowd is more local and the service less gritty. Would highly recommend the easy going Lazaros Taverna – be sure to have the slow cooked goat with lemon potatoes.
And… onwards! 🧡