“Sign here.”
It’s 10.30am at the Bank in Kythira. I’m in the middle of an intense back-and-forth conversation in Greek, alive with gestures, between the bank manager, the customer service agent, the teller, even the intern, and my Greek friend.
I feel like everyone’s involved in solving my problem… except me.
Like Bill Murray in Lost In Translation – on location in Tokyo shooting a ‘Suntory Time’ commercial. After the director’s lengthy monologue in Japanese, he’s delivered a to-the-point translation – “Right side, with intensity.”
Three hours later, I walk out the door with a new account in my name, ready for Euros… just call me Josh Murray-opoli.
We’ve been in Greece for ten weeks, spending time in Athens, The Peloponnese, The Mani Peninsula, and Spetses and Kythira islands. Am I speaking the native tongue? Well today I understood a local asking me “Γιατί?” (Why?). It felt natural, like my one-worded, two-syllable, second language.
This chapter of our year long adventure is soon to close. If, somewhat hypothetically, our landlord gave us our current apartment in Kapsali as an unexpected, and rather generous gift, would we stay? Bring on the gusty, overcast, empty of people, bone-chilling winter. We’d dive in warts n’ all.
We’ve traversed landscapes from peak to sea, explored remnants of ancient forts, plunged infinite bays and open seas, connected with new and old friends and family history, ‘got local’ at the town markets, and devoured perhaps one plate too many from kitchen to dining table.
Here’s a few keep safe memories that will have us returning sooner than soon for our next ‘Greece always’ adventure.
Land | The Rugged Mani
The temperature sits at a dry, sweltering 34˚C and the air conditioning’s blasting. We’re car-tripping across The Peloponnese, surrounded by towering ranges, devoid of anything green other than hardy olives trees.
It’s hard to envisage this land blanketed in snow, busy with ski lifts and Greek chalets. OK, maybe it’s not so Swiss-inspired, but the winter season here is a stark contrast to what many tourists envisage to be the Greek postcard.
The Mani is Greece’s southern most Peninsula, known for it’s soaring peaks that plunge into the seas below. We spent two weeks here in the smaller coastal town of Kardamyli. Here, the surrounding bay and upper mountain gorges are an oasis of drought-resistant cypress trees, evergreen oaks, olive and fruit groves, and hundreds of rare, local botanicals.
Venture an hour south towards the town of Areopoli, and the green disappears, leaving exposed, rocky hillsides for only the hardiest of nature’s survivors. It’s been rumoured that spring’s the ticket – when these stubbly mountains morph into soft, flower-filled valleys, the skies a deep blue, and hiking’s possible without heatstroke.
We’ve experienced a polite slice of what lies further afield in Greece’s northern lands – Meteora’s sandstone pillars rising out of the valleys with ancient monasteries icing their peaks; Delphi and the crumbling Temple of Apollo; Vikos Gorge and its interconnecting stone villages trapped in time – an ongoing, ever-expanding bucket list.
Sea | Island Migration
It’s Sunday morning at Potamos market and the town square’s alive with coffee and catchups. We’re introduced to Helen Tzirtzopoulos, the dedicated, and inspiring founder of Friends of Museums of Kythira. She’s leading the Migration Museum project on the island, in the northern port town of Agia Pelagia. Here, ships departed for new lands as early as the eighteenth century, where loved ones with one-way tickets would bid their final farewells to family.
This Museum isn’t just for those who left Kythira. Its story is alive and thriving – the Albanians who helped rebuild the island after the war, who have stayed to build families and homes of their own. The Dutch, French, British, Swiss, and many other visitors who have fallen in love with Kythira, who’ve returned, stayed, walking new paths and embracing cultural connection.
This evolving community, and one that has more and more appeal, is breathing new life into Kythira, and many other Greek islands – a curious mix of eccentrics, artists, musicians, writers, story tellers, herbalists, agriculturalists, photographers, historians – and a push to ensure a foundation of relevance and authenticity remains beyond the headlights of Summer’s sun worshippers and Greek Salad gluttons.
Savoury | The Slow n’ Steady Cook
More time in the oven = More ‘fall off the bone’ flavour
A simple formula, and one that Einstein would have endorsed if ever invited to a Greek taverna. Vegetarians stick with me… this is worth staying subscribed for.
Be it a stuffed capsicum filled with rice, tomato, herbs and feta, or a shoulder of goat with orange, cinnamon, ginger and honey – for many of these Greek dish fineries, the secret ingredient is a lengthy bake.
The indoor, private oven is a relatively new inclusion in the Greek home. For centuries they relied on the village communal, wood-fired oven for baking. Sunday’s meant trays full of layered meats, vegetables, whatever could be found in the larder being delivered to the town’s baker on the way to church.
After finishing with breads and gluten finery, in would go the trays. The oven would be sealed for hours, the resulting dishes filled with flavour, and the meats (which were often cheaper cuts) perfectly tender.
We’ve savoured many traditional Greek taverna meals these past few weeks. The proud owner of Pierros in Kythira last night, dragging us into his kitchen to ogle tray after tray of slow-cooked pork, beef, lamb, chicken, stuffed aubergines, capsicums, giant butter beans, chick peas and vegetables… all lovingly drenched in olive oil.
Sweet | Greek ‘Everything’ Treats
I refuse to name my favourite sweet moment this trip.
Melomakarona biscuits are for Christmas, but if Maria’s Sweets on Kythira bakes them in September? Let it be Christmas all year! Think butter-free (they’re good for you), shortbread-ish biscuits, drizzled drowned in honey/sugar syrup, sprinkled in walnuts, then finished in a pinch of cinnamon. Take your standard Scottish shortbread, add some jet fuel and send it to the stratosphere.
Dangerous. Handle with care.
Orange cake from Athanásiou Bakery in Kalamata – it starts life as a citrus-infused cake, which is then drenched in zesty orange syrup… dripping as you deftly manoeuvre slice to plate.
Room for more?
Rizogalo (Greek rice custard) – grabbed on a second visit to Maria’s. This one’s a childhood favourite that my Yia Yia used to make by the bucketload. A simple, milk-based creamy rice with a hint of lemon zest, sugar and cinnamon. I remember my brother overindulging at an early age… easy to do as a growing young man. Soon after he ‘re-lived the experience’ on the kitchen floor.
He returned the next day with renewed enthusiasm.
Connection | Family, Old and New-found Friends
A morning paddle in Avlemonas Bay and small talk with a friendly stranger, that led to a ‘Before Sunrise’ shared dinner. Stories of lives lived, lives remembered, laughter and a few tears flowed away the evening. I looked around… “We really should pay,” I remarked, “It’s just us and the yawning dog.”
Our hosts along the way, that have warmly welcomed us into their homes. Gifts of garden fruit and vegetables, cooked treats and sweets, local recommendations and many conversations. Far too friendly… not wanting to leave.
Quality time spent in the gritty heartbeat of Athens. Meeting with my oldest friend, morning after morning, for coffee and strolls that soon find a familiar rhythm of another time.
Connecting with ancestry on Kythira – exploring the laneways of Milopotamos and Aroniadika, the bays of Avlemonas and Kapsali – my soul feels enriched and connected to this island.
And most special of all, exploring Greece with my husband, who’s sidelined his Italian ancestry for FOMO all-things-Greek. Seeing him connect with the fabric of life here, from land to sea, has been wonderful. I just keep politely reminding him that my half-Greek, ‘almost-monobrow’ heritage will always be thicker than his.
Thank you Greece – we’ll see you again soon.
Shared Moments
Best bakeries:
Maria’s Sweets and More – A family run institution. Maria is well known across Kythira for her traditional cakes, biscuits, pastries. There’s also island salt flakes, pickled seaweed fennel and condiments. If you only try one treat, make sure it’s her Melomakarona. Heading to Livadi for dinner? Drop by afters for damn good gelato, hand made by her talented son.
Athanásiou – this slightly boojee Kalamata bakery is a well-known establishment on the Peloponnese, and for good reason. A world of Baklava, handmade chocolates, Tiropita and Spanakopita, and more wondrous carbs creations await.
Best ‘plunge’ moment:
Kalidi Beach, Kythira. A stone stairway from the surrounding cliff tops leads you to this ‘it’s been Instagrammed’ pebble beach. Snorkel with the fish and explore hidden grottos. Worth the decent.
Flat point:
Only a week left in Greece before departure.
I know… I hear the distant sound of the world’s smallest violin.
Cultural observation:
There is a unique hospitality (Filoxenia) experienced here. It may take a while to show it’s face, but there’s a kindness and generosity shown to strangers. Life here moves at a slower pace, particularly when it comes to administration! Family and friends make space to share late night meals, catch up for coffee, celebrate Name Days and gather for local festivities… and multi-generational ties remain strong.
Perhaps it’s time to book in a big Greek family reunion…
And… onwards! 💚
Oh Josh that was beautiful. So full of your love for the country and your time with people. Definitely full of your voice. I have so enjoyed reading about your time here. Thank you so much for taking the time (slower travel slower writing = great) to share these moments with the Substack community. And thank you for the kindness in your messages. I will just as eagerly look for your posts from other parts of the world, even sanitised Switzerland, but most of all I hope we one day meet for καφεδάκι.
Oh dear I'm sad you're departing Kythera. So beautiful and I've loved
all your stories ❤️